A Foodie's Quest

Slaw

2012-01-17T09:08:00.000-05:00

The choice of local produce always seems to be quite limited in the winter months, yet if you allow the less familiar into your kitchen, you open your horizons. It is ironic really, now that out of season fruits and vegetables fly around the world year-round, our diet seems strangely restricted. Root vegetables often take a back seat to all the colourful imports we rely on to brighten our plates, but they provide good, solid nutrition at a fraction of the price of the hothouse fruits and vegetables that have more or less become staples in our diets.

Rutabagas, or Swedes, are an old-time vegetable, dating back centuries in our history. It was at its most popular during the World Wars, but has fallen out of favour of late because it is not the most flamboyant of vegetables. However, it is ridiculously nutritious and cheap. It is lovely roasted or baked, like a potato; is a delicious addition to vegetable soups; and it is surprisingly tasty raw. Its flavour is close to that of its sibling, the turnip, but is much less watery, since the pale yellow flesh is quite dense, much like a potato, without the starchiness.

I have to admit that rutabagas usually get the same treatment in my kitchen, not only because I am a creature of habit, but because I have an 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' attitude towards old standards. I do often slip a few slivers of swedes in my old timer, the root slaw, but I have often thought that the mustardy dressing was a bit too intense for the sulfurousness of rutabagas. Obviously, ideas were brewing at the back of my mind, since there are stellar flavour combinations that I occasionally bring out during festive times.

In keeping with the seasons, rutabagas are best matched with the tartness of cranberries and the crisp, sweetness of apples. The results are always surprising, even confounding: when I first made this slaw, my sweetheart couldn't figure out what it was, despite being a detractor of rutabagas. Also, since swedes are virtually without fibres, and rather dry, they remain delightfully crunchy even after several days in the dressing, so they are perfect for making in advance.

Rutabaga Slaw

Serves 4, more than generously

1 medium rutabaga, about 400g/ 1lb

dried cranberries, a handful or two

2 medium apples

6 or so pieces crystalised ginger

1 lemon, zest and juice

3 Tbs oil, neutral or nutty

Salt and pepper

Using a very sharp knife, remove the rind of the swedes: all the stringiness is found in the thick peel, so even if you buy a gigantic root, peeling it will result in smooth flesh.

With the same sharp knife or a mandoline, shred the rutabaga as finely as possible.

Combine with the lemon juice and cranberries.

Shred the unpeeled apples, and mix into the salad.

Finely chop the crystalised ginger, and add to taste.

Mix in the oil, and season.

If needed, add some vinegar drop by drop to cut back on the sweetness.

Let sit for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Any crunchy apple will do. However, I do have a personal preference for the crisp-tart Empire and Gala -their beautifully crimson peel adds flecks of colour to the slaw- and the honey-flavoured Russet. The crystalised ginger adds another dimension of sweetness, and if it is chopped finely enough, its heat is greatly dissipated throughout, so it is barely noticed.

Bon app'!

Dig for Gold

2012-01-12T08:58:00.001-05:00

I recently bought myself yet another book for my already too large collection... Come to think of it, can a book collection be too big? Especially if one was a literature major?

Anyhoo, it's a book on foraging, a passion of mine that I would like to see more widespread. Far be it for me to say that one can feed oneself solely from wild foods, but foraging is a wonderful way to supplement one's diet with foods that are not available commercially. Many wild foods are extremely nutritious, and packed with flavours that cannot be found anywhere else. Foraged foods are perhaps too scarce to become a staple, but they are great for livening up boring fares. On the plus side, foraging eally connects you to the passing season, and sharpens your awareness of the environment you live in. And you really cannot beat the pleasure you get from knowing that the goodness on your tongue was free!

I have previously mentioned the seminal book by Euell Gibbons, Stalking the Wild Asparagus, but I have generally avoided making hard and fast recommendations because most of the books I've seen are too region-specific. However, this new book by Alys Fowler is quite interesting: Alys is one of my favourite garden writers. Trained in England and in New York, Alys takes on a more global and urban take to gardening, and her love of food colours all of her books. The Thrifty Forager is a good reference book, without the heavy details of a guide book. But what is particularly interesting about this book is that it approaches foraging from the urbanite's point of view: the books I've seen to date present foraging as a rural, or at the very least, wild area, kind of activity. Alys, on the other hand, is very much a city-girl, and sees bounty within the concrete jungle most of us live in.

Great reading if you are thinking of taking up foraging, or if you are a gardener waiting for the winter to thaw out...

Happy reading, and bon app'!

Begin at the Beginning

2012-01-03T14:44:00.000-05:00

Happy New Year everyone! Wishing you all the best for 2012: May your bellies be always filled with deliciousness, your table surrounded by loved ones, and your hearts brimming with gladness!

After an all too short week of rest, I am set to start on solid footing: my 'stuff' arrived from Montreal mid-November; I've settled into my little nest; and now that I've had time to open all the cartons, my returns home from work actually feel like I've come 'home'. Sometimes I feel like a ball of confusion, contradictions and nonsense: here I am, preaching the virtues of sustainable living, all the while hanging on for dear life to the material possessions that surround me… But I have to admit, now that all my cooking knick-knacks are back in my hands, a little part of my soul is sighing with relief. I can putter about my kitchen once more, no more roughing it like we are camping. Let the cooking begin!

Soups are a good place to start. They are great for clearing out the fridge, perfect for getting warm, healthful goodness into the body and the heart. They are especially wonderful at this time of the year, when all you want to do is curl up in bed under the duvet, or on the couch with a good book. And soups are great way to make winter vegetables shine. If you are still getting vegetables baskets from your CSA, you are probably receiving vegetables you are not familiar with: chop them into a soup, and you can discover the newbie in a gentle and non-threatening form.

Two of my favourite winter standbys are parsnips and rutabagas (also known as Swedes in the UK). I've mentioned them several times in the blog, but I have to admit that there is a dearth of recipes as I tend always to prepare them in the same manner (roasted or baked). If you are unfamiliar with either vegetable, a simple soup featuring one or several roots is a great way to familiarise yourself with them.

I have already posted several soup recipes, but I would like to expand on the basic principles to great soup. Just because... a bookful of recipes is nice to have, but knowing the whys and hows is even better. It all begins with a few key ingredients: first of all, you will need foundation vegetables. In French and Italian cooking, foundation vegetables are present at the beginning of every good recipe. Called mirepoix in French or soffritto in Italian, they are the usual suspects of onion, carrot, leek and celery. They need not all be present, but at least two of them should make an appearance. Onions and leeks contribute a savoury earthiness that grounds the flavours; they also add sulfurous notes that add punch and vibrancy. Leeks are sweeter than onions, with a tinge of green freshness, whereas onions are the universal unifier. Carrots contribute a great amount of sweetness, and can be left out altogether if you want more savoury than sweet. However, the natural sugars in carrots are great for countering bitter and acrid tones in other ingredients. Celery is an unsung hero when it comes to flavour enhancement: it contains a great amount of natural glutamates, and brings umami to everything it encounters. Umami is a Japanese word that literally means 'tastes good', and is usually translated as 'savoury'. Celery also adds a good deal of fresh green notes, even when cooked to death. However, if you, like me, have a bizarre dislike of the green stalks, celeriac, its rooty sibling, does the same job with earthy tones instead.

Secondly, you need some fat: it can be any vegetable oil, butter, or even some kind of meat drippings. Any fat will do, but it needs to be there as it contributes flavour, and helps to blend everything into a harmonious whole. Although fat has been vilified, it is actually essential to flavourful cooking. While you needn't be as liberal with the stuff as a French-trained chef, fat is the best carrier for flavour: this ability explains why we all love fried foods, and are quite fond of creamy things. Most flavour compounds -at least those that persist after hours of cooking- are oil soluble, so the best way to hang on to them is to use a minimum of fat. And the tried and true method to draw them out of any food is to sweat them out in oil or butter. 'Sweating' vegetables merely means to cook them over a medium to low heat, to draw out their moisture, and to concentrate their flavours. It also mellows out any sharp or hard edge, like sulfurous overtones and squeaky green notes. Most vegetables will turn translucent, or at the very least, will take on an eery sheen; the vegetables are usually fork tender at this point, and they will begin to take on some colour. Fully sweated-out vegetables will have a good amount of flavour, but you can push them a little further by allowing them to caramelise a little: this will add deeper colour, and a slight bitterness, so use with extreme discretion!

Next, a flavour enhancer, such as salt, herbs, or spices, is always welcome, but it is not absolutely necessary. Well, except for salt: unless you are on a salt-restricted diet, salt is essential to truly let the flavours sing. It brightens, highlights, unifies, intensifies: it's basically an all-around workhorse. But only in small doses: start with a teaspoonful first (when making a litre of soup), and adjust by the pinchful. If you have reached the point of 'salty enough', but feel that something is still lacking, bring in the big guns: herbs and spices. Everyone has their favourites, and many are wary of them, but I absolutely love herbs and spices. I have my favourite standbys, the ones I always bring out when something needs tweaking. Thyme is a good all-around herb, and most people find it rather pleasing: it's not as brash as rosemary, nor as show-offy as oregano; it's understated, yet it will let you know when it's there. Cumin is another regular: it's earthy, literally -people who do not like cumin often complain that it tastes muddy, but when it is toasted it has the ability to gather every other flavour into its arms, and hug your taste buds. Flavour enhancers are best added while you are cooking off the vegetables to bring out the best in them.

You might be wondering which place I give to stock, but I have written time and again, that plain tap water is a perfectly acceptable liquid for soup. I do not deny that a good stock contributes a boost of flavour, but if you follow the guidelines above, your soup will be lovely, even with regular water. Stocks are great for using up bits and pieces of left-overs, such as peelings from vegetables and carcasses from roasts, but if you do not have the time to make stock and have yet to find a good store-bought one, use water. From the tap. It will be divine. Milk, cream and any other liquid are also quite lovely, but should never be the bulk of the liquid, as they can weigh down the end result: no more than half should be the upper limit.

One last element that can be of a certain importance is the way the vegetables (and meats) are cut. Chunky cuts give you a rustic soup that is great in its own right. A fine dice, where everything is dispatched with military precision gives the appearance of refinement, while still giving you something to chew on. Blending everything into a smooth purée is supposedly the height of fine dining, but is actually a quick (and lazy, but no less useful) way to foodie Nirvana. Knife (and blender) work may not seem all that important, but professionals will disagree: the way food hits your taste buds and nasal receptors plays a great part in how you perceive the flavours. A smooth soup that you simply swallow needs to be quite intensely flavoured in order to have enough impact in its short trip down your throat. Whereas one can play it little more subtle if you need to chew on the ingredients to release their essences. To prove my point, next time you have a bit of spare time -and soup- try this little experiment: leave part of the soup chunky or diced, and blend smooth the other. Try them side by side: even though both soups are basically the same, they will taste different. The same principle applies to different shapes of pasta...

The icing on the cake, err soup, is the garnish. I usually like to blend the dairy into a smooth soup, but will dollop the stuff at the end when serving a chunky soup. It's lovely to look at, and it also lets the eater play around with the flavour combinations. If you want to go lush and cheesy, use it as a garnish: unless I am making this soup, I don't think that cheese should actually be inside the soup, as it can get too messy. Slivers of green onions adds a splash of colour and notes of freshness (it's not purely decorative). If you have left-over roast chicken or turkey, it can be shredded or diced into the soup at any time, but is quite pretty when it makes a lacy appearance over a smooth lake. (By the way, if you want to add raw meats to your soup, it should be browned in oil just before the mirepoix is added to the oil: browning the meat brings out its best flavours and looks.)

Bon app'!

Never Too Late

2011-12-29T07:01:00.000-05:00

Like I mentioned in my last post, the holiday season was a particularly busy one at the restaurant. So I had been remiss with my yearly reminder to give with a difference. However, I do believe it is not too late to make up for it. If you are like me, I am sure there are a few of you still searching for the perfect gift, despite Christmas having come and gone. Perhaps you are already getting ready for next year...

Maybe some of you have taken your Buy Nothing Day promise to the next level, and have not given out any physical gifts. In any case, after all the commercial hoopla of the holidays, you might be feeling that the perfect gift has slipped you by, perhaps you are still looking for that perfect gift with meaning. How about donating to a worthy cause?

Like many organisations, Nature Conservancy of Canada is appealing to the public to make worthwhile gifts with a difference. The Nature Conservancy works directly at the source by securing sensitive land, either through donations or purchases. Their work ensures that Canada's natural beauty is preserved for future generations to come.

Happy Holidays!

P.S. For those of you who know me, and are feeling a tad guilty. Don't. Just drop off a few extra cans at a local soup kitchen. Now that is what I call the perfect gift for a foodie.

Whirlwind

2011-12-28T12:15:00.000-05:00

Hi. I’ve missed you. Sorry about the month-long radio silence, I’ve been a little busy at work.

For those of you who celebrate, I hope you’ve had a wonderful Christmas. For everyone else, I expect you’ll be enjoying some well-deserved time off. I know I am: from the last week of November to just a few days ago, I was sucked into the vortex called ‘the holiday season’, only emerging from it midway through last Friday when it occurred to me that it was finally over. You should have heard the sigh of relief that escaped my lungs!

Which is why Christmas tends to be a quiet affair in my household. Oh, we still exchange presents and have a grander than usual breakfast/brunch, but there is no hoopla, no large gathering, and absolutely no fuss. We save it all for New Year’s. The few days of rest and the distance from the madness allow us to go whole hog in welcoming the New Year. It kind of makes me feel nostalgic for all those childhood Christmases: the magic of it all; the wonder and amazement; the toy display on the fifth floor of the Eaton department store on Sainte-Catherine Street...

The following dish is perfect at anytime of the year, but it is especially suited for the holiday season since almost everything can be prepared well in advance (like weeks!), assembled the day before it is needed, and thrown in the oven minutes before it is to be eaten. Best of all, it is absolutely lovely with leeks, which are still available locally, and cheap as chips -despite the recent hike in grocery bills.

Œuf en cocotte, also known as baked eggs in English, literally means eggs in a heavy pot. They are traditionally baked in miniature lidded pots, but you can use any oven-proof ramekin, lids optional. In its simplest form, eggs are baked with some heavy cream and a generous dash of seasoning, but it can be as elaborate as you wish -some outrageously expensive white truffles, anyone? They are in season at the moment, and I hear it is a good year for them...

Œuf en Cocotte with Leeks
Serves 4

4 Eggs
1 leek, trimmed of dark green parts
125ml/ ½ cup heavy cream
salt and pepper to taste
butter

Slice the leek crosswise as thinly as possible.
Was under running cold water if it is gritty.
Over medium heat, melt a tablespoon of butter, and add the leeks.
Sweat out the leeks until they are completely wilted, but are barely coloured. The wilted leeks can be refrigerated for a week at this stage.
Add the cream, and bring to a low simmer: you want the cream to reduce until it is quite thick, but not split, about 2 minutes.
Meanwhile, butter 4 oven-proof ramekins.
Divide the creamy leeks amongst the ramekins, and break one egg into each.
Season with salt and pepper on the eggs, and pop into a 180°C/350°F oven, and bake until the eggs are done to your liking: about 5 minutes for barely set whites, 7 for cooked whites and runny yolks.

Serve the eggs hot from the oven, or barely warm. They are lovely as it, but you can jazz them up a bit to get people talking. A pinch or two of cumin seeds added to the leeks will add warmth and earthiness, all the intensifying the sweetness. If you have them, roasted tomatoes are a zippy addition to the eggs, and will brighten the whole. And if that isn't enough flavour for you, why not top the eggs with some cheese on their way out of the oven? 'Tis the season for Stilton, and it is the holidays after all!

Bon app'!

Keep Calm and Buy Nothing

2011-11-12T14:41:00.002-05:00

The British World War Two slogan 'Keep Calm and Carry On' was already quite popular in North America when I left Montreal, but it is positively everywhere in the UK, in all its forms. I like that the UK organisers of Buy Nothing Day are using the posters' popularity to their advantage. Every year, I like to remind everyone of this anti-consumerist campaign, which falls on November 25th (exactly one month before Christmas!) in North-America, and on November 26th in the rest of the world.

Why is Buy Nothing Day/Christmas so important to me? Because. Over the years, I've become increasingly alarmed by how far we are straying away from the true meaning of Christmas: namely, good will, peace, love and humanity. I am not religious, and I would hardly consider myself a spiritual person, but if anything, I have a deep belief that the winter holidays should be about friends, family, and sharing; not about accumulating a wealth of gifts, nor about spending money on consumer goods we could all do without.

2011 was another hard year, in a long string of bad years. Most of us could really use the extra money that will be spent on gifts. Most of us already have more stuff than we really need. Many of us can't really afford to pay for the gifts we will place under the Christmas tree. I am the first to admit, that despite all my good intentions, I have accumulated more stuff than I can actually make use of in a lifetime. I especially felt it when I had to pack up my life and move to another country a mere two months ago.

The holidays are about giving, but who says that you need to give a physical object? A few alternatives are: giving your time to a charitable organization; making a donation to a cause that is close to your or your recipient's heart; sharing a cherished recipe with someone who enjoys or is beginning to cook; having a friend over for tea. You can find other ideas over here.

The Foodie's Quest is all about food and sustainability, which is why this foodie isn't going to buy anything on the 25th and 26th, and will make this holiday season a waste-free one.

Have a good Buy Nothing Day! And Bon App'!

Funny Face

2011-11-08T09:17:00.000-05:00

November is a funny month: one can smell the snow and frost, and yet the few warm sunny days we get do play a trick on the mind. Autumn has brought rain and grey days, but it has been quite warm across the Northern hemisphere, unfortunately it does not necessarily translate as a prolonged season in the fields.

Farmers in Canada and the Northern US are all too aware that sudden frost or snowfall can destroy entire crops, so most fields have been bare since October. November is when the home garden truly proves its value: it may have produced abundant summer crops of tomatoes and other goodies, but with a little know-how, a home gardener can continue producing food well into late November, even in Canada.

In fact, smaller producers across Canada have been leaving certain crops in the ground to increase their storage space. Root crops such as carrots and beets can easily keep throughout the winter under a deep blanket of snow. In-ground preservation lessens the need to build new storage facilities, and reserves any existing buildings for more fragile crops.

While avid gardeners have known about this conservation method for years, the home advantage is visibly the continued production of leaf vegetables. Gardens everywhere have been cleared of the trailing bean vines, sprawling tomatoes and invasive squashes, but humble lettuces and leafy kales and cabbages can still be found behind garden sheds and even in front yard flower beds. These leafy greens are the stalwarts of late autumn gardening, and should take a greater place in our plates. Lettuces are a little less frost-hardy, however if they are kept off the ground (like in a planter on a balcony) they will do quite well until they get buried in snow.

I have written several times about how uninspiring I sometimes find lettuces, but I have recently noticed that I actually crave the delicate leaves when the air turns chilly and crisp. It probably has to do with the shortening days and the dark skies, but my eyes must be seeking splashes of colour, which the greens provide in spades. Topped with shredded roots such as carrots, celeriac, and why not some rutabaga, a few chopped nuts or some cooked beans, and a ‘boring’ salad can spark quite a bit of interest. I have seen several recipes for raw kale salads; while I haven’t had the time to try them, fine slivers of kale with definitely add a load of nutritional punch to your salads.

Other vegetables to be on the lookout for are the lovely squashes currently in storage. Their bright colours will enliven any dish, and are packed with nutritious goodies. Roast wedges in the oven, add some slivers of chilli, smashed garlic and grating of nutmeg, and serve with a nutty grain like whole wheat bulgur or quinoa. You might not even notice the missing slab of meat.

And one mustn’t forget winter fruits: apples and pears have gone into storage, and will be available to us for several weeks. Citrus fruits are coming in from California, Florida, Asia, North Africa and Spain –depending on where you live. Fruits of all kinds make lovely treats, but can also take part of the main meal: apples stewed with sweet potatoes; orange segments with kale and beans; cranberry chutney in a cheese sandwich…

November might be the beginning of the end, but it does not mean that our plates need be lifeless.

Bon app’!

Happy Thanksgiving!

2011-10-10T15:38:00.001-04:00

To all you Canadians out there, at home or expats, a happy, happy day to you!

And bon appétit bien sûre!

World Food Day and Blog Action 2011

2011-10-07T12:23:00.002-04:00

Oh this is exciting: this year, Blog Action Day falls on 16 October. Which also happens to be World Food Day, the day that the United Nations created the Food and Agriculture Organization. So it goes without saying that this year's topic for Blog Action Day is Food.

With all that is happening with food around the world, there is bound to be a lot of discussion on the topic. Keep your eyes peeled on 16 October. And if you want to contribute your 2 cents' worth, sign up for Blog Action Day 2011.

The Story of Stuff

2011-10-03T16:20:00.000-04:00

Something to think about... Waste Reduction Week is just around the corner.

Giving Thanks

2011-10-02T16:16:00.002-04:00

It’s October. Canadian Thanksgiving is only two weeks away, and All Hallow’s Eve is not far behind. If the recent warm spell in Eastern Canada had mulled your minds, you can no longer deny that Autumn is well and truly here. The leaves have begun putting on their fall colours, and the evenings have a definite chill to them. There have been a few frost warnings already. Yes, fall is here, but the fields are still providing us with an abundance of food. Truly, this bounty is something to be thankful for.

Apples and Pears

Late strawberries and other summer jewels may still beckon from market stalls, but there is something about the sharpness in the air that makes me crave the crisp crack of a perfect autumn apple. I must admit that when the first apples appear at market, I walk by them without a side glance. I snub summer apples; in fact, for the longest time I even denied their existence. I only have eyes for the tart apples of the late season: they have a mighty crunch to them that is so satisfying. In order to develop the deafening crack, apples must be exposed to chilly nights, which are so unwelcome in August.

As much as I seek teeth-pullingly firm apples, I love my pears to be soft and buttery. However, do not attempt to bring home dead-ripe pears from the store, as they will bruise on the way. The best pears to pick will still be firm in the bulbous part, there might be a little give around the stem area (but no shrivelling), and the skin will be matt. Shiny skinned fruits are unlikely to ripen at home, and if they do, they are rarely very flavourful.

Cranberries
Cranberries are a fast growing industry in Canada. While it may never reach the proportions of the American production, it is doing its best to give them a run for their money. The local industry is therefore trying really hard to distinguish itself by adopting strict environmental norms, since most cranberry operations use huge amounts of water, and are often situated in sensitive areas.
If you are on the look-out for organic cranberries, you are in luck. Quebec berry producers have figured out that the only way to compete with cheap imports is to go chemical-free: Quebec is now the uncontested number one producer of organic cranberries.

Hazelnuts, Almonds and Walnuts

North Americans rarely celebrate nut season -especially now, with the prevalence of allergies- but there is a world of difference between a fresh and not so fresh nut. The meaty flesh is much more flavourful, and the oil will have a clean flavour to them that you cannot get from old, stale nuts. Almonds do not grow in Canada, but we do produce hazelnuts in the West and walnuts almost across the whole country. There is also the wild black walnut that you can forage for, but you will have to compete with squirrels and other wild life to get a hold of them.

Pumpkins and Other Winter Squash

Winter squash have been enticing us since late August, but the ones with the best keeping qualities are the ones that come to market later in the season: they will have cured properly, and formed a thicker rind, allowing you to store them in a cool, dark spot until well into the winter.

Pumpkins are the one exception to the winter squash rule. They show up later in the season, and disappear much more quickly than their cousins, yet they keep very poorly. But they are a treat for the brief period they are around. Pumpkin pie, pumpkin soup, roasted pumpkin… the possibilities are endless. Whatever you can do to a pumpkin you can also do to others squashes: the texture and flavour will differ, however it will still be lovely.

Kale and Cousins
Imported kale is pretty much available year round, but this vegetable is at its best when the frost comes in. Which means that if you can get your hands on a local crop, you will have the best kale for eating. My preferred kale is the old Italian variety called Tuscan kale, also known as cavolo nero, black cabbage or dinosaur kale. But purple or Russian kale is also lovely (and so pretty), as is regular curly kale. All kales should have their ribs removed before consumption, and should be cooked through for best digestibility. The easiest way to cook it is to boil in lots of water for about 5 minutes. Once drained, you can sauté in butter or oil, add it to a stew or any any other dish. Kale has the amazing property of not falling apart even when cooked to death. (The only exception is when the kale is young and tender and has not been subjected to frost, in which case, it should be cooked briefly like any other green vegetable.)
Every other cabbage in season are also a treat at this time of the year. They are usually a very good deal, since producer take pride in growing massive cabbages, and then sell them for a song. Most cabbages take well to being eaten raw or cooked. However, there are two exceptions that I know of: Brussels sprouts should always be cooked (though never too much); flat cabbages -they resemble flying saucers or large, round cushions- on the other hand, are quite tender and watery, and best consumed raw.

Leeks and Company
The first leeks to appear at the market are a lovely treat, so young and tender, and perfect for the barbecue. Autumn leeks are practically a whole other beast, that quite enjoys being fully cooked in soups, stews, sautéed in butter or roasted in the oven.
While leeks keep best in the refrigerator, onion and garlic should be kept well away from the ice-box. These keepers prefer cool, dark places, but not the fridge. An unheated pantry (or even an unheated guest bedroom) will preserve these roots for up to 5 months.

Root Vegetables
The chilly turn in the weather will make you crave hearty, earthy things: root vegetables are ideal. Beets, parsnips, rutabaga, turnips, carrots, potatoes... All are hearty and very inexpensive: a good thing considering the average grocery bill has shot up in recent months.

Mushrooms
Cultivated mushrooms are grown in very controlled environments, but the wild ones depend entirely on Mother Nature. If the rain and cool weather coincide at the right time,the crop can be stupendous.

Seafood
Two words. Oysters and mussels. They are both available year-round, but I find them best when the weather gets cold.

Wild Game
It's game season. The first ones to appear at the butcher shop are the feathered game and venison. Boar might also be available in October, but larger game usually appear much later in the season. Don't forget to order your Thanksgiving turkeys!

Summer Fruits and Vegetables

If you haven’t already stocked up for winter, there is still time to do so in October, although you will have to hurry to get a good deal on choice produce. Canning tomatoes is a big commitment; what with the kids going back to school, the work schedule picking up, rows of jars lined up in the pantry might not be an option. If you have the freezer space, tomatoes are great candidates for the deep-freeze: choose plums or Italian tomatoes (they render less juice on the defrost), wash them, and freeze them whole. Just dunk them in some warm water when you need them, their peel slips off, and you can use the flesh as you would any canned, whole tomato.

Other late-summer fruits will still make an appearance until at least mid-October: autumn strawberries can be frozen or jammed for the winter; black plums (damsons) are a juicy alternative to fall apples. Figs from a shorter distance are usually available at this time of the year, as are artichokes and quinces.
If you are into foraging, keep an eye open for blackberries and elderberries: it is quite late in the season, but given the late spring and slow start to summer, the berries might still be hanging about.

Bon app'!

Indian Summer

2011-09-29T15:22:00.001-04:00

It feels like summer in London. The mercury is expected to reach 29°C (84°F) this week-end, just to make up for the absentee summer they’ve had over here. My sources say that Indian Summer is early in Eastern Canada as well, so there you go: just as we thought that it was all coming to an end, we get a pleasant surprise. Those late-ripening tomatoes can stay on the vines just a little bit longer.

Last night’s dinner was a simple affair. I am gradually discovering the beauty of a minimal kitchen. A good chef’s knife, a cutting board (to preserve your kitchen counters and your blade), a frying pan and a fork are all you need to whip up a lovely slaw and mushroom toast.

I put an emphasis on ‘good’ knife: if you do not already have one, you need to invest in as good a knife as you can afford. It’ll make chopping a breeze, and it won’t strain your wrist. Just remember that, despite having a sharp edge, knives from the store need to be properly sharpened before you start using them. Good knife sharpeners are becoming increasingly rare, so ask around to find one near yourself.

Although plastic cutting boards are cheap and readily available, I prefer wood or bamboo boards, as they are less damaging to blades and last practically a life time. Ideally, the board should be large enough to allow you to get a lot of prep work done, yet small enough to fit in your sink to wash. And yes, you can wash a wooden board; you can even give it a good scrub with a soapy brush. Just don’t let it soak in water.

I’m trying to stay away from non-stick cookware, but find it really difficult as they are everywhere. If you are also on the market for new cookware, try to avoid Teflon as it off-gasses at high temperatures. The fumes are highly toxic and persistent in the environment. If not buying non-stick isn't an option, be on the look-out for products that are free of PFOAs: several kitchenware companies are voluntarily phasing out these scary chemicals. If, on the other hand, you are attached to your non-stick ware, just be advised that they should never be used at high temperatures: that means no stir-fries (I am always puzzled when I see non-stick woks), and no char-grilling. High temperatures -anything higher than medium-high- trigger the off-gassing of PFOAs, and actually damage the non-stick finish.

With a good knife and a nice cutting board, you can julienne root vegetables, a red pepper, and a knob of ginger to add pizzazz to this beet slaw. The ginger was a last minute addition, and it takes the earthy slaw to a whole new level. Next time, I might try adding some candied ginger for extra zip and a touch of sweetness. A fork and a bowl will suffice to make the dressing. That same fork can be used to stir-fry slivers of garlic and a handful of mushrooms in some brown butter. Throw some sliced bread in the toaster (or in the frying pan), slather on some mustard, top with the mushrooms and a sprinkle of herbs.

Dinner.

Bon app’!

The Other Side

2011-09-28T08:43:00.000-04:00

I'm almost settled in... The thing with modern overseas moves is that your stuff doesn't arrive at the same time as you. Gone are the days when your entire household could fit in the cargo hold of a steamer ship, and alight to port when you do.

So I am without my pots and pans, and most important for me and this blog, my ridiculously large collection of dishware. My Sweetheart's kitchen is quite spartan, so cooking is already quite an adventure in itself, but producing food for a blog might prove to be an endeavour beyond my capacities. In any case, it might give me a better idea of what a beginner must surmount to conquer the kitchen. I'm warily looking forward to the experience.

Bon app'! Whichever coast you are on.

Roasted

2011-09-21T09:41:00.000-04:00

I haven't put up much of the summer harvest this year. It seemed a little futile given that I already had too much to pack as it was... But I cannot resist roasted cherry tomatoes, and the jar would be long gone by the time the cartons were shipped off and I was on my way to another continent. Worse comes to worst, I could have eaten them on the plane!

Roasted cherry tomatoes are a sublime method of preserving these little nuggets of summer. Vine-ripened cherry tomatoes are already bursting with flavour, but the roasting just concentrates them even further. A cross between fresh-picked and sun-dried, these tomatoes are sure to win over even had-core tomato haters (I know! Hard to believe such people exist, but my brother is one such creature.) Best of all, if the tomatoes are kept submerged in oil, they (technically) keep for a really long time.

Although any size tomato can be roasted, they should be dead-ripe and cut down to about the same size as a half cherry tomato. It will shorten the time in the oven, allowing you to savour them all the more quickly. You can also add any flavouring you want. My personal favourites are thyme, oregano, cumin and garlic. I occasionally add basil when I am faced with a glut.

Roasting tomatoes is easy peasy, and the resulting food is so lovely it will turn even a simple meal into marvellous fare. There is no recipe here, just a few guidelines. Once the tomatoes are cut up, set them on a bed of whatever herbs and spices you choose, along with a generous amount of slivered cloves of garlic. Lay out the tomatoes so that the cut side is facing up; season with salt and pepper, then drizzle with a good amount of oil. Olive oil is packed with flavour, but regular vegetable oil will remain liquid in the refrigerator, so use half and half to get the best of both. Make sure that every thing other than the tomatoes are kept under oil to prevent any scorching. The pop in a warm oven (150°C/300°F) for about an hour.

When the tomatoes are wrinkly, but not crispy-dry, they are ready. Let them cool before putting them away in a jar. As long as the tomatoes are completely covered in oil, they should keep for about a month or more. Should you want to keep them for longer, you should add about a teaspoon of vinegar (the tastier, the better) to each 500mL/1 pint jar, before processing them for 15 minutes in a hot water bath. Or you can freeze them indefinitely.

Roasted tomatoes are lovely poured over hot pasta, roasted meats or pan-fried fish. You can also blitz them in a blender to make a pesto to spread on toast. When all the tomatoes have disappeared, you will likely have some flavoured oil left-over: this oil is scrumptious drizzled into a salad dressing or even used as a cooking oil.

Bon app'!

The Market's Come to Town

2011-09-12T14:11:00.000-04:00

Congratulations to the fine folks of Fort Albany! As of this year, they now have a regular summer farmers' market. The market more or less resembles the CSA model found in the rest of Canada, where fresh produce is delivered from farms in Thunder Bay to a drop-off point in Fort Albany. The fresh produce is less expensive than the food available through the Government of Canada's Food Mail Program.

When one hears of the high cost of food in Canada's North, and of how difficult it is to provide healthy food for children, this market is great news. In fact, the people of Fort Albany have been working hard at becoming more self-reliant for food: the community set up a school nutrition program close to twenty years ago -way ahead of the Ontario government- providing a full breakfast and healthy snacks to elementary and high-school students. Last year, a community greenhouse was built, and this year, the people of Fort Albany planted their first seeds; they're even talking about setting up a community composting program to supply the greenhouse.

Ideas for ensuring food security in this northern town are flourishing: food activists have mentioned work shops on poultry husbandry and gardening in northern climes, while local elders want to bring back traditions for self-reliance. It warms my heart to hear about people taking their food sovereignty into their hands, especially after reading about a resident in Whitehorse getting slapped with a fine for keeping chicken. Here's to hoping that the urban chicken flock keeps growing in Canada.

Bon app'!

A Peaceable Kingdom

2011-09-05T00:00:00.000-04:00

Every gardener likes to believe that their garden is their own kingdom to do with as they wish. And, in many ways, it is. A gardener can plant just about any thing that suits his or her whim -as long as it is adapted to the garden's climate and conditions; any 'weed' or unliked plant is heartlessly dispatched, fought off, and generally not tolerated; insect pests and other pesky animals are combated by any means possible. In short, a gardener can be a despot in the garden.

There are, however, some gardeners who prefer to take a more 'Mother Earth' approach, nurturing the land that feeds them, accepting and welcoming any guest who wanders into the garden. Drastic measures to fight off destructive invasions are only used as last ditch solutions. While it is not my place to judge how everyone else chooses to maintain their garden, I do firmly believe that every creature and plant -no matter how disagreeable- has its place in the world.

We humans are not always very good at sharing our habitat. We will preen over our pets, but 'pests' are another story altogether. Nevertheless, if we think about it, those other creatures were here before us, and they've let us move in on their territory. They've learned to live amongst us, and have even adapted to living with us.

Take the urban raccoon and skunk for instance. The few studies conducted on these urban critters has found that they average longer lifespans and are generally sharper than their rural counterparts. Their roaming territory is much smaller than that of their country cousins, often delineated by large thorough fares. While they do indeed enjoy snarfling through our trash for food, their diet still comprises mainly of large insects and vegetation. In Montreal, where suburban lawns have been decimated by the white grub for the past decade, both the raccoon and the skunk are an effective (though messy) method of controlling the pest.

As for the groundhogs, the squirrels, the mice, and the voles, they too have their place in the urban landscape. Squirrels like to hoard away seeds and nuts, most of which they never find again; those very seeds and nuts go on to grow into plants and trees that rejuvenate urban forests and woods (what little of them is left.) Groundhogs, mice, and voles dig underground tunnels -that can, admittedly, cause some havoc in gardens; however, these tunnels often become the refuge of wild solitary bees, who build their nests there. The bees that emerge from there are the first pollinators to appear in the spring, buzzing about the earliest flowers.

Urban animals do make a nuisance of themselves at times: stealing the first, perfectly ripe cherry; taking one bite from the reddest tomato... Wouldn't you know it, they like tasty foods too! It's annoying, I know: I've pumped my fist anger more than once. If you are tempted to trap and to relocate your local pest, please don't. Most SPCAs and Humane Societies no longer advocate the relocation of urban critters. Especially not this late in the season. The displaced animal will be away from its community and its winter stores: you will basically abandon it to starvation and predators. Also, you open up space for other critters to move in, so you will be nowhere ahead.

The only way to control their population is to limit their access to food. Make sure your garbage and compost bins are tightly covered. If you have a garden, fence in or cover your crops; however, if the creature is wily enough to figure out your defences, admit defeat for now, and try a little harder next time!

I'm going to miss those creatures. In a few weeks, I will be moving across the pond. There will other animals, different plants to eat. The growing season is a little off, but longer. I'm not sure I will have a garden. I'm not even sure if I will have time to write. I hope I will. In any case, it's been a fun two year and a half.

Thank you.

Good Haul

2011-09-04T16:11:00.001-04:00

Back in May, I wrote about growing your own crop of potatoes. I had thought about posting regular updates on how my spuds were doing, but potatoes aren't particularly photogenic, so I put it off. Until now.

Granted, it's not a record-breaking harvest. Nevertheless, it's not a bad haul considering the parents were overly-tired supermarket buys. I'll definitely get a few meals out of these. Potatoes are an easy crop to grow, and could be a fun way to ease into the hobby. There are few requirements for success: rich, well-draining soil (I used half and half potting soil and compost); full sun (the larger potatoes were produced by the plants that got the most sun); and regular watering (the soil should remain as damp as a wrung-out sponge) is all you need to grow dinner.

Happy growing, and bon app'!

Refresh

2011-09-03T10:41:00.001-04:00

Growing up, watermelon slices were always served sprinkled with salt. It would enhance the melon's sweetness, and was utterly delicious. My current favourite way to eat watermelons is to sprinkle slices or chunks with chili salt. You can find jars of it in South American shops, but it's easy to make at home: just combine some finely crushed or powdered chile with salt, sprinkle away, and add a spritz of lemon or lime juice, if you want. You might even be able to get away with using chili powder.

The chili salt is also wonderful on tropical fruits such as pineapple and mangoes.

Have a nice Labour Day Week-End!

Bon app'!

Fast Food with a Conscience?

2011-09-02T10:42:00.006-04:00

Jenna at Cold Antler Farm posted this little video... I don't normally promote brands or large corporations, but I like the spirit behind the marketing: If more fast food chains sourced their food sustainably, perhaps small farmers and ethically minded people will have a chance to survive in today's economy.

Bon app'!

La Rentrée

2011-09-01T15:18:00.001-04:00

C'est la rentrée. It's back to school/back to work time. The sun is making a glorious showing in the aftermath of Irene, but there is a definite chill in the air. Autumn is only a few weeks away... The trees don't seem to have noticed it, nevertheless, the lighting's quality has changed. It's sharper, crisper, one can almost hear the light slice through the air.

However, do not write off the bounties of summer just yet. The fields are still producing a lot of gorgeous food, that only need to be minimally prepped to keep you and yours tasting the sun in the coming months. A snippet of what to look for in September:

Fruits
Although we usually think of mid-summer as the most plenteous season, late summer/early autumn is actually when the offerings are truly copious. Not only are the fields and orchards reaching their apogee at this time of the year, later crops coming into fruition.
There are still lots of berries to be had well into September: Quebec strawberries are usually available until October, if the heavy frosts stay at bay, but the heat of August seems to have pushed other berries to keep producing -local raspberries, blueberries and currants are still available for a little while yet. Cranberries will also be showing up shortly.
Although the chilly weather is edging in, Quebec watermelons and cantaloupes are finally at their peak. I'm quite sure that the situation is similar across Canada and northern states in the U.S.
Peaches, plums, pluots and apricots are still going strong both from British Columbia and Ontario; Quebec plums have also arrived at the markets.
And one mustn't forget the apples and the pears: the cool nights bring crunch to apples, and fall varieties are trickling in.

Artichokes
Northern chokes are in! They look particularly lovely this year, really big and meaty.

Cabbages, Cauliflowers and Co.
Every member of the cabbage family has proven to be powerhouses of nutrition. They are available in all shapes and sizes -and colours! Look at those fluorescent-hued cauliflowers!- and there is most certainly one that will suits your taste. Kale is especially lovely at this time of the year, as the cooler weather seems to sweeten the tough greens.

Tomatoes and Family
Tomatoes need no introduction, but many are unaware that their extended family is enormous. Members include peppers (hot and mild); eggplants; potatoes; ground cherries and tomatillos; and a few that are not edible.

Corn
North Americans love their sweet corn, and with reason! There is no pleasure like that of biting into a piping hot ear of boiled or grilled corn. While we often think of July and August as the time for eating fresh corn, September is actually when it's at its best. Especially if you are a fan of old school yellow corn; while it does show up in August, yellow corn requires a longer growing season than the more modern, sugar enhanced Peaches n' Cream and white corns, so it is at its most abundant in September. It is a touch less sweet than newer corn varieties, but it still scrumptious.

Squashes
Patty pans, zucchinis, yellow squashes and cucumbers still dominate market shelves, but their winter counterparts are now squeezing in for some room. Delicata and spaghetti squashes were the first to show up, however, butternut, butter cups and acorns have been spotted, along with green hubbards.

Beans
Pod beans for pickling and shelling beans for salads... Beans are good for you!

Wild Treats
If you're into foraging, you will probably have noticed that the timing was a little off this year. Quebec chanterelles are only just coming to their peak (they usually appear in July!), while other, later varieties have also begun popping up!

Elderberries usually peak in August, but they are only just beginning to ripen, so if you like making jam, you should try to seek them out.

Root Vegetables
The list is long: onions; garlic; carrots; leeks; beets; rutabagas; turnips; parsnips; Jerusalem artichokes; potatoes... I've forgotten a few, but these old standbys will keep you going until the spring. They may seem ho-hum compared to fluorescent purple cauliflower, but they should not be snubbed. Try them roasted, mashed (the link goes to a post on potatoes, but any root can be mashed), or in a soup.

Bon app'!

Waste Reduction Week

2011-08-29T23:36:00.000-04:00

Waste Reduction Week is celebrating its tenth year in Canada! (Ten years! One wonders why Canadians still top the charts for waste production!?!?!)

It's still a ways off since it doesn't start until October. But I thought I would mention it now because National Zero Waste Week in the UK takes place next week. There is also a Europe-wide Waste Reduction Week happening in November; however, I was unable to find dates for the US, Australia, and New Zealand.

For ideas on how to put your trash can on a strict diet, you can check out these sites: My Zero Waste; The Rubbish Diet; Wasted Food; The Clean Bin Project; The Zero Waste Home. There is more, but these sites and blogs are a good place to start.

Of course, every week should be waste reduction week...

Abundance

2011-08-28T20:48:00.000-04:00

As Irene moves up the East Coast, there is nothing to do but to batten down the hatches, sit tight, and ride the storm out. I'm not particularly worried for myself: Montreal isn't exactly on her path, merely on the outer edges of her tropical wrath. I am more afraid for the folks in the Lower Saint-Lawrence. They are just emerging from the havoc that was spring, and must now hunker down for possibly more flooding. I hope that everyone is safe, and that the threat of Irene is nothing more than a media frenzy.

Since my refrigerator is full of produce, I might as well cook as long as the electricity holds out. If you swing by your local farmers' market (on a quieter, more pleasant day), you will see an abundance of produce sold by the bushel. For those of you with vegetable gardens, you are likely harvesting more than you know what to do with right about now. The end of the season is around the corner, and the fields seem to be sending out the message that it is time to be putting up for the barren months. The vegetables are gorgeous and prices are staggeringly low, and if you have the space and time to process the lot (and a car to cart it all home!), you can be nearly self-sufficient over the winter months.

Ratatouille is the ideal dish for preserving the flavours of summer. This vegetable stew is actually perfect for whiling away the time on a dreary summer day: the warm aromas will permeate every nook and cranny of your home, and stave off August chills, while the weather is raging outdoors. (As long as you have power…)

It keeps for several days -its flavours improving each time you re-heat it, freezes well, and can even be canned for use over the winter. The basic ingredients in a classic ratatouille are tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplant and zucchini; however you can add any other summer crop you happen to have on hand. As I debated whether or not I wanted to don a complete rain suit to go and harvest the yellow zucchini in my garden, I chopped up some green beans to add to the simmering pot.

Ratatouille recipes often call for tough, pungent herbs such as those found in the mix Herbes de Provence; but, do beware: some commercial mixes contain lavender, which can be pleasant to some, or absolutely vile to others. One way to avoid an unpleasant surprise is to use up the herbs (fresh or dried) you most likely already have on hand: thyme, rosemary, oregano, savory, (and lavender, if you wish) are most commonly found in Herbes de Provence.

There are several ways to make ratatouille, probably as many as there are cooks who make it. The vegetables can be roughly chopped into large chunks for a more rustic feel, or carefully diced into perfect, little cubes. They can be roasted, grilled, fried, or stewed, depending on how much time you want to spend toiling over them. I usually prefer to chop the vegetables into smallish cubes, and to pan-roast them over low heat. The result is a versatile, full-flavoured stew that can also double as pasta sauce.

Ratatouille

Yields about 3 litres/quarts

1 medium onion

3 or more cloves of garlic

6 (500g/ 1lb) medium tomatoes, or 1 can

2 bell peppers, preferably not green

1 or 2 zucchini or other summer squash

1 chile pepper, dried or fresh, seeds removed, optional

3 tsp herbs, or to taste

125ml/ ½ cup oil, preferably olive oil

salt

Peel and chop onion. Peel garlic, and leave whole.

In a wide skillet or sauce pan, heat the oil. When it starts to shimmer, add the onion and garlic.

Turn heat down to medium-low. Leave the onion and garlic cloves to cook down slowly, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, chop the tomatoes. Chop them according to your tolerance of cooked tomato peel, i.e. if you dislike the tough bits of peel, chop finely or use canned, crushed tomatoes.

When the onion is translucent, crush the garlic with the back of a spoon. Stir around until the smashed garlic starts to stick to the bottom of the pot. Add the herbs, the chile if using, and a generous pinch of salt.

When the onion and garlic begin to colour, add the tomatoes. Let simmer for another 10 to 15 minutes.

Chop the eggplant. The peel is usually tender, so it need not be removed. However, you might prefer dicing the bits with skin more finely than the fleshy parts.

Check on the tomatoes: they should be cooked down to the point where a stirring spoon would leave a clear channel in the sauce, and the oil has separated from the vegetables. Add the eggplant; stir to make sure every bit is covered in oil. Leave to roast for about 10 minutes.

Remove the tail and core of the peppers, and chop.

Returning to the skillet, check the seasoning; add more salt or herbs as needed. Throw in the chopped peppers, cover the pot, and cook for 5 minutes.

Top and tail the zucchini, and chop. Add to the pot, and simmer only until heated through, about 5 minutes. They are at their best when under-cooked.

Chopped, fresh herbs such as parsley and basil can be added just before serving.

Nowadays, ratatouille is often served as a side dish in restaurants, but it is actually a vegetarian main course. My mother always served it with steamed and buttered couscous, but it also pairs well with rice or any other grain. As I mentioned earlier, ratatouille can double as a pasta sauce (a great way to squeeze in a few extra portions of veggies in your days), but it is also rather lovely served at room temperature or even cold. Try it mixed with some cooked and/or sprouted wheat by way of salad.

Bon app’!

You Will be Missed Jack

2011-08-26T14:00:00.008-04:00

From Root to Stem

2011-08-19T20:50:00.001-04:00

This article from the New York Times got me thinking about gazpacho. A few weeks back, I spotted a book that was all about gazpacho. And just about every restaurant I walk past features a version of the ubiquitous soup on their menu. Gazpacho.

I've been mulling the subject over in my mind for a while now, but the right words just wouldn't come to me. How does one wax poetical about something that seems so foreign to so many people? Food magazines and shows love to talk about scrumptious cold soups to alleviate the heaviness of a summer heat wave, but most diners seem to eye chilled bowls with suspicion.

I think Fran Leibowitz had it right when she said that "cold soup is a very tricky thing and it is the rare hostess who can carry it off. More often than not the dinner guest is left with the impression that had he only come a little earlier, he could have gotten it while it was still hot."

And yet, gazpacho is the perfect medium for abundant summer harvests. While most of us may have the traditional combination of tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and garlic seared into our minds and taste buds, just about anything goes nowadays. In the introduction to the book on gazpacho, I found the most apt phrase to describe this Andalusian soup: "Gazpacho is the perfect way to make any vegetable disappear." Perhaps Andalusian grandmothers wouldn't recognize their traditional soup in our creations, but if it can be eaten raw, it can go into the soup.

The classical recipe calls for extracting the vegetal waters by means of a food mill or a mortar and pestle, and then thickening the thin juice with stale bread, but if you own a blender, you can churn out dinner in a matter of minutes. You won't even need the stale bread, since the vegetables' pulp will render a thick enough liquor.

You can also use up all those odds and ends of vegetables that usually go in the garbage or compost bins, such as the peels, the stems, and the leaves of non-leafy foods. The colour of the resulting soup may end up a little muddied, but the flavour will be more robust. Blenders that are powerful enough to crush ice are usually strong enough to reduce any vegetable into a smooth soup, however, if yours is an older model (or if you, like myself, only have a stick blender), you can always sieve the soup to make it smoother.

I truly believe that a bevvy of delicious, cold soups can be created from whatever is in your refrigerator right now, so I will only give you a basic recipe as a guideline. The rest is up to you. For each cupful of chopped vegetables, add a generous pinch of salt; a half to full teaspoon of a flavourful vinegar; and a generous splash of olive or other robust oil. Reduce to a purée in the blender, adding ice or cold water as needed.

If you are really stumped for ideas, here are a few suggestions:
Classic Red - Tomatoes; red, yellow or orange peppers; cucumbers, peeled and seeded; and garlic.
Green - Cucumber; zucchini or other summer squash; kale or other green; garlic and scallions.
Salad - Lettuce; roquette; avocado; cucumber; tomato; lemon juice and zest; garlic.
Fruity - Tomatoes; watermelon; pineapple; mint.
Health Booster - Broccoli; kale; cucumber; apple; mint; sunflower seeds.

Now go forth, and empty your refrigerator!
Bon app'!

Entice

2011-08-15T17:44:00.001-04:00

I've been having a few friends over. Flowers were brought home and put into vases. And plans for a feast were written out according to what was on hand. Food is obviously central to any gathering at my house, and summer is the perfect time to feature the bounties of the land.

Nothing can top a platter of seasonal vegetables with bowls of Romesco sauce and hummus for dipping; a salad of summer-fresh tomatoes, herbs and lettuce is divine; some local cheese and bread, and a warm quiche to stave off the chill of an August evening round off the meal. Then comes dessert. The finale can be a bit of a bone of contention: do I serve a bowl of fresh fruits, and leave it at that? Or do I bake something that features seasonal fruits?

If we were still in the midst of a heatwave, there would be no contest, dessert would be fresh berries with a side dish of whipped cream. But we are no longer suffering from sweltering temperatures. August is still hot, a daily reminder that summer is not yet over, yet sundown is refreshingly cool, so turning on the oven no longer seems like torture. In fact, it is almost welcome.

Pies are a North-American tradition: if you do the food blog circuit at this time of the year, you will find an abundance of delectable pie recipes. However, I am not handy with pies: they were not in the family repertoire, and they were also missing from culinary school. I have become quite agile with tarts, and can actually churn them out with a little foresight. Yet, for last minute desserts, nothing beats a clafoutis (the final 'S' is silent.) Clafoutis is a traditional cherry flan from the Limousin region of France. There is still time to make this flan with sweet black cherries, but any ripe fruits will make a scrumptious clafoutis. Peaches and apricots are lovely in August, and there are still a few raspberries to had, together they are magic. The following recipe is an adaptation of the one found in Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Today, 15 August, would have been Ms. Child's 99th birthday.

Clafoutis
Yields one 25cm/10" round or 23cm/9" square flan

750ml/ 3 cups fruits, chopped and pitted
300ml/ 1¼ cup milk
90g/ 1/3 cup icing sugar
90g/ ½ cup almond powder, tightly packed
3 eggs
Butter

In a blender, blitz all the ingredients, except for the fruit, for about one minute.
Set the batter aside for at least a half hour.
Butter the baking dish -it should have about a 2L/8 cup capacity- and strew the fruit at the bottom.
Pour the batter over the fruit, and place in a pre-heated 180'C/350'F.
Bake for an hour, or until the batter stops giggling in the pan.
Serve warm, or just barely at room temperature.

Clafoutis are usually made with wheat flour, but I really like the way almonds bring out the nuttiness in stone fruits. If you would rather try the original recipe, substitute the almond powder with 70g/ ½cup of flour, and replace the icing sugar with regular granulated sugar. The batter will be a little thicker, so you might have a prettier flan if you strew the fruit over the custard. Bake as you would the above.

Happy Birthday Julia, wherever you are. Bon appétit!

Sultry

2011-08-07T12:35:00.000-04:00

There are some flavour combinations that one eyes with great suspicion (chocolate and bacon is one such example), but there are others that just make sense as soon as they are mentioned. Tomatoes and peaches. The idea kind of jars at first, though if you think about it the intrigue begins to take over. They're both fruits; they both come into season at around the same time; they are lovely with most summer herbs... So if you're a follower of the 'if it grows together, it goes together' rule, it just has to work.

And it does. The sweetness of the peaches enhances the sugar in the tomatoes, and there is just enough acidity to counterbalance the whole. Left unpeeled, the peaches' fuzziness adds a voluminous mouth feel, that is just perfect with the velvetiness of a ripe tomato.

It's a simple summer combination that requires the least effort and input. You will need dead-ripe peaches and tomatoes: wash the fruits; cut into wedges; toss with slivers of fresh herbs; sprinkle with a few drops of vinegar, salt, and you're ready to go. A mild vinegar, such as white wine, cider or rice vinegar, is best suited to this salad. There is no need for oil since the fruits have enough body to give the impression of creaminess. Serve at room temperature.

Any herb with sweet undertones will do: basil, from purple to green to lemon scented; mint; or lemon balm. Thyme and rosemary, used sparsely, are also lovely. My personal favourite is shiso, a Japanese herb that is sometimes called beefsteak plant, perilla, or even Japanese basil. It can be found in most Asian shops, though some herb growers will have them at their market stalls. The Japanese typically use green shiso raw, and reserve the purple variety for pickles, whereas the Vietnamese and Koreans seem to use the purple leaves exclusively. Shiso has a wonderful flavour that combines slightly camphorous notes with fresh chlorophyll, and the barest hint of anise to bring it some sweetness.

Bon app'!

Another Keeper

2011-08-03T16:02:00.000-04:00

I am a saucy eater... Umm, that sounded dirtier than I had intended. What I meant to say is that I really like when my food is swimming in a flavourful sauce. It probably has something to do with my Chinese background and my French training: a good sauce will make just about anything palatable, a great sauce will steal the show. And you can sop it up with a chunk of bread or a spoonful of rice.

I've been meaning to post the following recipe for a while now, but somehow the right time kept passing me by. Because, I will shamelessly admit it, I rarely make this sauce at home. In fact, when I lived in London, there was a wonderful store at Borough Market that stocked beautiful Spanish products, including jars of Romesco sauce, so 'homemade' often went by the wayside. Not that it is in any way difficult to make at home.

Romesco sauce is Spanish, one of the 'It' flavours of the moment. This is another one of those sauces one should always have on hand: it is great with just about any meat or vegetable, and truly hits the spot as a snack when slathered on a thick slice of bread or crisp croutons. It can also be slathered over potatoes, just like Deb does at Smitten Kitchen, or as a variation on the ajiaco theme.

It is traditionally made in a mortar and pestle, but can be whipped up in the blink of an eye in a food processor. Having never owned a food processor, I've a few tricks to make a blender version of the sauce. This luscious sauce combines several ingredients that are currently in peak season: rotund red peppers, tubby tomatoes, and alabaster almonds.

Fresh almonds are a bit of a trial to get to, but are worth all the trouble. They have a lovely, fresh flavour that borders on sweet and milky. They are softer than dried almonds, and can easily be crushed in a mortar. Whole, fresh almonds look like stunted, green apricots; the flesh of the fruit is dry and woody. The part we eat is the kernel of the pit. If you do find green almonds -often in Middle Eastern groceries- and choose to use them for this recipe, crack open the fruits using a nutcracker or a hammer (watch your fingers!), pry out the nut, and peel off the white skin. Otherwise, just use the raw, unpeeled almonds called for in the recipe. If you do not have any kitchen appliances, finely chop all the ingredients with a knife, and substitute crunchy almond butter for the slivered almonds.

Romesco Sauce

Yields about 500ml/2 cups

2 red peppers

500 ml/2 cups crushed tomatoes

1 onion

4 cloves garlic

125 ml/ 1cup olive oil

3 Tbs sweet smoked paprika

100g/1 cup slivered almonds, with the skin on

1 tsp Sherry or red wine vinegar

salt

Halve the red peppers,remove seeds and pith. Stuff each half with a peeled clove of garlic, and place cut side down on a baking sheet.

Roast peppers under the oven's grill until well charred.

If you have a gas stove, you can also char the whole peppers over an open fire.

Set garlic aside, and place peppers in a bowl and cover with cling wrap, leave to cool.

Chop the onion.

In a large saucepan, fry the onion and garlic over medium heat.

When the onion is fully cooked and begins to brown, add the slivered almonds.

Keep stirring so as not to burn the almonds.

Lightly toast the almonds, then stir in the crushed tomatoes. Let simmer.

Peel the cooled peppers and add to the sauce, along with the smoked paprika.

Turn the heat down to medium-low, and stir constantly.

When the olive oil starts to float up from the sauce, remove from the heat.

Purée the sauce in a food processor, blender or a mortar: do not blend until smooth, you are looking for a rough texture.

Check for seasoning. Return sauce to the saucepan, and bring to a gentle simmer.

Keep scraping the bottom of the pan until the sauce thickens a bit more, and the oil separates again.

Remove from heat, and stir the vinegar.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

Romesco sauce will easily keep for a week or more in the refrigerator -if you can resist it for that long. Use it as dip for bread and veggies; blend it into sour cream or cream cheese, and eat it with chips. Serve it as a sauce for grilled meats or vegetables. Or use it as a pesto over pasta.

Bon app'!

Plenty

2011-08-01T21:58:00.000-04:00

August. The sky, the sun, the weather, the garden, everything points to it: it's still summer, and it will be so for a little while yet. But I can't help but feel that it is slipping away all too quickly. The days are getting imperceptibly shorter; evenings are cooler; light sweaters are taken out of drawers to ward off the chill. I know I shouldn't complain, some regions have had no summer whatsoever, others are still struggling to get out of the horror that was spring.

Yet, I can't help but feel a little cheated. It's August, and my tomatoes are only just beginning to produce fruits, whereas this time last year I already had a couple of jars put away. This time last year, it felt like summer would never end; this year, the end of summer is all I think about, that and my big move... Here are a few things to look for in August:

Apples
I know that apples are usually associated with autumn, but the harvesting of these fruits actually begins in late July/early August. Many apple growers will thin out their fruits to ensure that the main crop will be lush and healthy. These thinnings are often labelled as 'white apples': the unripe fruits are too tart for eating out of hand, but are ideal for jelly-making or for producing homemade pectin for jams.
There are also a few varieties of apples that ripen in late summer. Summer apples tend to be softer than autumn fruits, so they might be an acquired taste for some.

Artichokes
For those of us living in less clement regions, August marks the beginning of a most wonderful season. Artichokes have been on market shelves since late spring, but now is the time to keep your eyes peeled for the local crop. Artichokes are the flower buds of a close cousin to the thistle, a perennial. However, in zone 6 and colder (i.e. most of Canada), artichokes are grown as annuals, so the buds do not show up until late August and should be available until October.

Beans
Green beans, yellow wax beans and runner beans are abundant at this time of the year. But so are fava beans, and fresh shelling beans such as Roma. It is also the time for fresh Canadian chick peas: their availability is spotty, but if you scour the market stalls, you just might be able to grab a bunch. All beans make lovely salads, perfect for fighting off the heat. If you've never tried freshly shelled beans in a salad, you do not know what you're missing: the flavour is fresh and lively, and unlike dried beans, fresh beans are easy to digest.

Cabbage and Cousins
Coleslaw is a classic summer salad, its tang and creaminess is the perfect foil for grilled foods, and is easily the most popular crowd pleaser. New crop cabbages are tender and cause fewer upset stomachs than late-season cabbages, but if you are not partial to coleslaw, you have other options.
Broccoli is, without doubt, the workhorse of the family: high in vitamins A and C, it is also a good source of calcium, iron, and other minerals. Cauliflower is not as hard-working as its cousin broccoli, but it is milder in flavour and more easily digestible, so tends to be more popular. Recent years has seen the apparition of colourful cauliflowers: difficult eaters may be swayed by a purple or orange cauliflower.
Kales of all stripes are showing up at the market. While I love kale, it isn't exactly a summer vegetable, however, it does freeze well once cooked, so you can always stock up on kale for later in the year. In any case, every member of the cabbage family is scrumptiously nutritious, and are believed to have anti-cancer properties.

Corn
Despite the cool and wet spring, sweet corn has made it to market. The ears are still on the small side,but boy are they sweet! In Quebec, only the two-coloured varieties are currently available. If you have a preference for old-school yellow corn, you will have to wait until September.

Eggplants, Tomatoes and Peppers
In case you were unaware of the fact, these fruits are close cousins, along with potatoes, and husk cherries. Greenhouse tomatoes, eggplants and peppers have been on market shelves for a while, but the field grown crops are trickling in. The fruits are usually a bit dirty, and a few will be wonky, but their flavour is unbeatable: you can almost taste the sun and the rain with each bite.

Grapes and Other Fruits
When one thinks of locally grown fruits in Canada, the list seems awfully short at first, but we are actually blessed with a surprisingly wide range. Ontario and British Columbia are big producers of table grapes, peaches, and plums, all in season right now. Quebec grows a few varieties of plums, which should be available a little later in the month.
The first local apricots are showing up, as are wild blueberries, black berries and husk cherries. Nectarines shouldn't be far behind.

Squashes and Melons
Zucchinis, patty pan squashes, cucumbers and melons are sure signs of summer. The first spaghetti squashes are also wending their way to the market: you can probably plan an entire menu with nothing but squashes from start to finish!

Root Vegetables
They are all finally here: beets of all stripes; colourful carrots; new potatoes; and white turnips. The wet spring, followed by scorching heat was really tough on these vegetables, but they are making a comeback. Radishes are still going strong despite the heat we've had in Southern Quebec. In fact, if you are partial to spicy radishes, you will be well served.
While technically not a root vegetable, Swiss chard is the twin sibling of beets: if you like chard -which are also in season now- you must try beet greens. They are, in my humble opinion, the superior green of the two. As a matter of fact, the greens of most root vegetables are absolutely lovely, and can bulk up a salad or replace spinach in a stir-fry.

Bon app'!

Cool as a Cucumber

2011-07-21T19:06:00.001-04:00

Oh dear me. I thought it was hot a few weeks ago. Little did I know that worse was yet to come! While there are a few pockets of renegade climate (anyone out in B.C., Washington State or Oregon?), large swaths of Canada and the United States are in the midst of a full-blown heat wave. I am fervently counting my prayer beads, and religiously perform a nightly rain dance, all to no avail.

When the heat and humidity reaches such unbearable levels, my body all but shuts down. I hardly eat or sleep; I move about in a haze, functioning on basic mode. I can hardly get myself to cook under such conditions. What little energy I have is spent putting up with the heat at work; by the time I get home, I just barely manage to eat whatever can be consumed raw and cold. A cool cucumber I am not.

For all you brave souls out there who turn on your barbecues and grills to cook your suppers, the following is a recipe you want to keep in your pocket. It is a sauce that will make use of the beautiful produce that are abundantly available at this time of the year, and it is perfect on grilled meats, fish and seafood. It goes by several monikers, depending on the country of origin: salsa verde in Italy, chimichuri in Argentina, this sauce is also lovely over grilled or raw vegetables. Ocasionally, anchovy paste is added to salsa verde when used over vegetables, but it is completely optional.

Although parsley is most commonly used, any tender herb can be used in the salsa. And there is a plethora of choice right now: cilantro (coriander); basil; fennel or dill (perfect with fish and seafood); tarragon; garlic scapes; green onions (spring onions/ scallions); chives, and the lists goes on. Celery leaves, while technically not a herb, are also a tasty addition to the sauce. Often discarded, and much overlooked, celery leaves are more than mere garnish for bloody marys, they add a lovely chartreuse colour to the sauce, and are mild enough to go unnoticed by celery nay-sayers like myself. Even though I consider Mediterranean herbs such as thyme, rosemary, and oregano as some of my favourite aromatics, you want to keep them to a minimum in the sauce, lest they overpower other flavours.

Salsa Verde

Yields about 500ml/ 2cups

1 medium onion

2 cloves garlic

1 large bunch fresh herbs

60 ml/ ¼cup red wine or cider vinegar, or lemon juice

250ml/ 1 cup olive oil

salt and pepper

Finely chop the onion and garlic cloves.

In a mixing bowl, mix the vinegar, salt and pepper. Add the chopped onion and garlic. Set aside.

Remove the herb leaves from stalks, top and tail green onions and garlic scapes, if using.

Roughly chop or tear the herbs, before adding to the onion mixture.

Add the olive oil.

Check the seasoning, and let sit for at least half an hour before serving.

The salsa verde is divine over any grilled meat, fish, or vegetable. In fact, you can think of it as a lighter, more summery version of a compound butter, such as beurre maître d'hôtel: try it over new potatoes, a T-bone steak, lamb chops or a slab of wild salmon. It will keep for several days in the refrigerator; the olive oil will congeal, but become liquid again once it reaches room temperature.

By the way, some of you will be finding kohlrabi and fennel bulbs in your CSA baskets. Both these vegetables invoke a lot of head scratching for anyone unfamiliar with them. Fennel bulb has a distinct anise flavour that can be quite pronounced when grown under sweltering conditions. The fragrant fronds are delightful in salsa verde, and the bulb can be sliced thinly and doused with the sauce. Kohlrabi is a member of the cabbage family: it is basically the enlarged stalk of a cabbage. The leaves can be eaten like cabbage or kale, and the bulb can be cut into batons and consumed raw. If the bulbs have been sitting in your fridge for a while, it might have to be peeled, as its skin thickens in storage. The flavour is reminiscent of broccoli stems. Both bulbs are actually sublime when braised in a liquid of your choice or confit in olive oil, but it is much too hot to even consider cooking them right now.

Bon app'!

P.S. August 6th is National BBQ Day , and Meal Exchange is calling on all Canadians across the country to host a BBQ with locally-grown food in support of our local food economy. Every Canadian deserves access to healthy, nutritious food, and this starts with you! Anyone who hosts a BBQ will have a chance to win 2 tickets courtesy of West Jet!

Check out the National BBQ Day website for more information. (Thanks for the heads up Anne!)

The CSA Wants Your Help

2011-07-19T19:22:00.000-04:00

The Canadian Space Agency (yeah, that CSA!!) has launched a wee food contest, and would like your input. Basically, when Canadian Chris Hadfield next launches into space in 2012, he will be bringing with him a care package of typically Canadian snacks to share with his colleagues on the International Space Station. The contest rules can be found on the site, just follow the link. However, I was unable to find the contest's closing date.

I must say that I was a little stumped when I was contacted to submit my suggestion. Not that I have anything to say about the Canadian space agency, but because I couldn't think about a typically Canadian snack that fit the contest criteria! (Does that mean I have to give up my crown as the Snacking Queen?)

The Time is Now

2011-07-14T23:25:00.001-04:00

A humanitarian crisis is looming in Africa's North East: a drought, thought to be the worst in sixty years, is creeping across Northern Kenya, Somalia, and Ethiopia. The situation is dire. The images of the famine of 1984 are seared in my mind, I cannot even fathom something worse.

Like a perfect storm, the drought and food crisis are aggravating the already unstable situation in the region. Displaced populations are on the move yet again in search of food and water. What with food prices at an all time high, and Western countries plagued by increasing debt, it does not seem likely that aid will be rushing in anytime soon.

There are several organizations trying to avert a disaster, and the diaspora are mobilizing their efforts. I know, it seems like the demand for aid and money is incessant. Perhaps, if we are suffering of donor fatigue, we can direct our efforts elsewhere? Droughts; floods; wildfires; tornadoes and hurricanes; and plagues of insects are part of nature, but these natural occurrences are happening at increasingly alarming rates. And everything points to their getting worse.

The signs are so glaring and horrifying, can we continue denying the effects of climate change? Perhaps, we could lobby our governments to take firm steps towards environmental sustainability and conservation.

The Honourable Peter Kent
Minister of the Environment
Member of Parliament for Thornhill (Ontario)
Les Terrasses de la Chaudière
10 Wellington Street, 28^th Floor
Gatineau, Quebec
K1A 0H3
Email: Minister@ec.gc.ca

For donations (as gleaned from the CBC):

UN World Food Programme: WFP is targeting the most vulnerable individuals with much-needed food. They aim to reach nearly 6 million people in the coming months.
Canadian Red Cross: Money raised will go to support the work of the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement in the region, both providing emergency relief and helping people recover their livelihoods.
CARE Canada: CARE is improving water harvesting structures such as water pans, shallow wells; supporting livelihoods by implementing cash-for-work programs and cash relief to most vulnerable households in the affected areas.
Doctors Without Borders: Doctors Without Borders has worked in the camps at Dadaab for 14 years. They offer medical services in Dagahaley camp, providing a general hospital and five health posts.
Mennonite Central Committee: MCC is committing $1.2 million through Canadian Foodgrains Bank to support two food-for-work programs in Kenya that will have short- and long-term benefits. Kenyans will be paid with cooking oil, maize and beans for their construction of 92 sand dams and 25 wells. In Ethiopia, MCC funds are expected to be used for supplemental food for children under age 5 and lactating or pregnant women.
World Vision Canada: World Vision provides food, clean water, agricultural support, health care, and other vital assistance to children and families in need.

The Dog Days of Summer

2011-07-13T13:04:00.000-04:00

It's hot outside. Very hot. Too hot to cook. On days like these, I just break down and buy figs. They're not local to me, but they are in season in warmer climes such as California and Greece. I was hoping to have my own crop this year, but my fig tree has not appreciated the cool spring we had, so I probably will not be harvesting any fruits.

Figs are versatile fruits: sweet and tender, they are perfect for simple summer desserts; meaty and flavourful, they also lend themselves well to savoury dishes. On sweltering days, they can even replace an entire meal. Just crumble an unripened cheese -such as fresh goat cheese or feta- over halved figs. A drizzle of olive or nut oil is optional.

Figs pair well with robust flavours like thyme, rosemary, and honey. They are particularly suited to roasting, just follow this recipe for roasted peaches for a simple dessert or the basis for a salty-sweet starter. Or you can do as the Italians do, and wrap quartered figs with slivers of cured ham.

Bon app'!

Sustenance

2011-07-11T01:11:00.001-04:00

I've noticed that Quebec asparagus are still hanging about at the farmers' market. They remind me of gangs of teenagers loitering about in the malls: quite harmless, but somewhat unwelcome. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE asparagus -I'm sure that I've mentioned this fact almost as much as I've professed my love of peas- but on the rare occasions that the local asparagus season extends into July, I get rather turned off at the sight of them. By late June, I've quite had my fill for the year, gorged myself silly, and thought of every single way I could remember to dress the green spears. By the time July rolls in, my thoughts have turned to new pastures: I'm thinking garlic and tomatoes.

More specifically, my every thought is tinged by the aroma of garlic scapes. I usually try hold out from buying them at the market because I know that the flower stalks will be appearing in my CSA basket. But I am a weak, weak, weak person when it comes to resisting my food and aesthetic urges. The scapes are too pretty, what with their curlicue necks and pointed caps, I cannot deny them. Thus, I find myself with a surfeit of garlicky stalks that embalm my fridge and cloud my judgment.

What to do with the strange beasts? I usually stock up on zippy, garlicky pesto that keeps well in the refrigerator, and freezes almost indefinitely. The pesto is a lovely stand-in for garlic in any recipe, but the vegetable has its own merits. The bunches sold at the market, or found in one's CSA basket, are often sufficient for a year's worth of pesto and ample left-overs. Which begs the question, what now?

The garlic's frivolous flower stalk is a rather tame creature that will not lash out when consumed raw. Its flavour has definite garlicky-ness, but it is mild and has a touch of chlorophylic 'green' tones. The scapes add a delightful crunch when uncooked, and deserve to be only lightly warmed through if served hot. It is more piquant than pungent, though your nose may disagree with this notion. The following non-recipe is best consumed the day it's made, any left-overs -even when hermetically sealed- will embalm the ice-box in its entirety.

Saucy Tomato and Garlic Scape Salad

A few garlic scapes - count about 2 or 3 per person
Tomatoes
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
Fresh, chopped herbs, optional

Wash and trim the scapes, removing only the dried bits on top and at the bottom.
Thinly slice or chop the scapes. This step can be done in a food processor, as the curlicues can be a little fiddly to chop.
Chop the tomatoes into bite-sized chunks.
In a bowl, gently combine the tomatoes and scapes.
Season to taste. Drizzle with olive oil.
Cover tightly, and let sit at room temperature for at least 1 hour.
Adjust seasoning, and serve at room temperature.

After resting, the tomatoes will have rendered a lot of water, whereby making its own 'dressing'. Cherry tomatoes are often the tastier early tomatoes, and are particularly suited for this salad. Try to use different varieties for added colour and flavours. The salad is lovely as is, but you can add cubes of soft cheese (I am currently partial to Buflone mozzarella...) if you want to make a meal of it. This salad can also be transformed with the addition of cooked or sprouted grains, such as whole wheat berries, kamut, bulghur, or quinoa. Or, you can do as the Italians do in the summer, and use the salad as a cold sauce for hot pasta. Buonissima!

Bon app'!

Show Your Support for Farmers!

2011-07-10T21:45:00.001-04:00

Time is of the essence: There ~~is only one day~~ are only a few hours left to the letter writing campaign in support of protecting prime agricultural land in Ontario. The deadline is midnight tonight.

Farmland is under constant threat, we must put our foot down and tell the Ontario Minister of Natural Resources that building an open pit mine at the expense of agriculture and clean water is senseless. You need not be a resident of Ontario to show your support for the local farmers.

More information can be found at

www.ndact.com

www.canadians.org

www.citizensalliance.ca

Ballerina Girl

2011-07-07T23:19:00.000-04:00

There's an ongoing debate on the origins of the Pavlova. Australians claim that the dessert was created in Perth in honour of Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, while New Zealanders will ascertain that the dessert originated on their shores years earlier. Either way, Pavlovas are easy desserts that truly enhance the flavours of the season.

The Pavlova begins with a meringue base. There are a number of ways to make meringue, but simple is best, so that is the recipe I will give you. Also, since the Pavlova is usually eaten with a fork or spoon, the meringue does not need to be bone dry, which is a good thing if you happen to be experiencing a hot and humid summer.

Next comes the cream. Whipped cream is traditional, but you can substitute thick yoghurt, or a combination of the two. Many recipes call for a sweetened whip cream, but I feel that it is a bit of an overkill since the meringue is already quite sweet. You can also top the meringue base with a fool, and call it a day. Rhubarb fool is of the season, and also quite fitting: since the 'original' Pavlova was topped with sweet-tart passionfruit, brilliant rhubarb would act as a shout-out to the tropical fruit. However, at this time of the year, the choice is endless, and you are only limited by your imagination.

Classic French Meringue
Yields about a dozen nests

90g/ 3 egg whites
150g-180g/ ½-¾ cup sugar

With an electric or stand mixer, beat egg whites until they begin to form a dense froth.
Gradually add the sugar, until everything is incorporated.
Beat the eggs to the stiff peak stage: when you pull the beaters out of the egg whites, a well-defined peak should form. Also, the eggs should be glossy, and show little or no remnants of sugar.
With a spoon, drop dollops of meringue onto a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper or foil.
Flatten the meringues, while forming a slight dimple in the centre.
Place in a 100'C/210'F oven, and leave to dry for about 2 hours, or until dried to taste.
Leave to cool completely before spooning whipped cream onto the centre of the meringue nests.
Top with fruits of your choice and serve.

Bone dry meringues will keep almost indefinitely in an airtight container, but everything else will keep for about a week, if the weather is not too damp. You can play around with different sugars for different effects and flavours, but do not alter the quantity too drastically, otherwise you will affect the density and sturdiness of the meringue. You can use a piping bag to form meringue nests that Martha Stewart would approve of, but it is quite unnecessary.

Bon app'!

A Slip of the Mind

2011-07-06T22:08:00.000-04:00

I forgot to mention grapes in my last post. In fact, I've noticed that I forget to mention grapes just about every year. Yet, I have fond memories of hunting for wild grapes of a sweltering July day... There used to be kilometres of wild grapes growing along the Canadian National and Canadian Pacific railways in Montreal. With a little luck, you might still be able to snatch a few -if the Greek yayas and Italian nonnas haven't got there before- but I seem to recall that a good chunk of the vines had been removed because they posed some kind of imaginary danger to the trains.

In any case, even if you do not live in wild grape territory*, July is the time to be on the lookout for special grapes. Although I will probably never taste the grapes I photographed downtown, I am looking forward to biting into Concord grapes. For those of you who are unfamiliar with Concords, they are the grapes upon which 'grape' flavour was modelled. They are nothing like the anonymous red and green seedless table grapes that are available year-round: the Concord reeks of grape-ness. It has a thick, blue fleshy skin that is both tart and sweet, and a jelly-like centre that usually contains a seed or two (although seedless varieties have been popping up of late). As a kid, I enjoyed sucking the juicy centre into my mouth while noisily spitting out the peel before any of the tartness could reach my lips. I've grown up since, and learnt to appreciate the contrast of sweet and tart.

Another grape of note that is a true seasonal treat is the Muscatel. Muscats are true gems in the world of grapes: when perfectly ripe, they are a beautiful golden yellow with the odd brown speckle. They are maddeningly sweet, and have lovely floral and honey notes to them. These grapes are one of the few double duty grapes that perform well: it is an absolute delight as a table grape, and it produce some of the most lovely dessert wines.

Grapes, like most cultivated fruits, are inevitably sprayed with pesticides. However, the fine, white residue found on the surface of grapes is not a remnant of toxic chemicals. It is a naturally occurring wax called pruine in French. It is believed to contribute greatly to the flavour of the grapes, and wine makers insist that it is an important element for good wines. By all means, do wash your grapes before eating them, but do not scrub them until they become spotless!

Bon app'!

*Wild grapes are actually quite hardy, and can be found just about anywhere in temperate North America. The only exception might be where grapes are actively cultivated, in which case the wild plants may have been eradicated to prevent the spread of disease to the vineyard.

Glory Days

2011-07-02T01:41:00.001-04:00

This is it, folks. We're at the height of Summer: the bountiful days of Summer. A few crops will probably be delayed because Spring was a little uncooperative, but here is a list -far from comprehensive- of what to look forward to in July.

Beans, Peas, and Other Pods

I've already mentioned beans and peas last month, but July is when the green and yellow wax beans really come into their own. Closely followed by fava and Lima beans. Runner beans might join the fray at the end of the month, but they like hot weather, so they might hold off until August. Shelling peas will gradually give way to sugar snaps and snow (mange-tout) peas.

(Trivial, yet interesting, tidbit: I recently learned that Saskatchewan is rapidly becoming a world leader in chickpea and lentil production. I am looking forward to the day when fresh Saskatchewan chickpeas will be available at the market.)

Beetroot and Other Root Vegetables

Baby beets usually start showing up at the farmers' market in June, but the wet and chilly spring had been detrimental to this crop. Hopefully, the recent warmth will have given the little roots a boost. Other root vegetables making a show of strength are new potatoes; baby (and not-so baby) carrots; turnips; new onions, along with their younger sibling, the green onion; the new season garlic in July are usually large-bulbed, and have proper cloves.

Berries, Etc...

Local and red-ripe strawberries will be around until the early fall, but July hails the arrival of other berries such as raspberries; red and black currants; gooseberries; blackberries and mulberries. High-bush blueberries also trickle in by the end of the month.

Cabbage and Co.

Young and tender cabbages are perfect for coleslaw, and are reliably inexpensive at this time of the year. If you prefer other members of the cabbage family, you're in luck, as broccoli, cauliflower, rappini, and Asian cabbages are also abundant in July.

Field Tomatoes

Local (unheated) greenhouse tomatoes have been available since mid-June, but the first field tomatoes do not usually make a show until the end of July. There something about those slightly misshapen fruit, speckled with a little dirt that is oh-so special: they smell of the earth, the sun, and the rain. Their tomato-eyness is beyond surreal... I don't know how to explain it. It's the scent that lingers around after you've brushed up against a tomato plant: that is what a field tomato smells and tastes like, on top of all the natural elements it has absorbed. I mean, I know that all tomatoes -even those hockey pucks- grow on similar vines, but only a tomato that has grown exposed to the elements seems to smell the way it does.

Figs

Come July, I can't help myself anymore: I have to buy a case of Greek figs. They are dead-ripe and luscious, and perfect on their own. Not local in any sense of the word, but if you live in fig territory, then you will be seeing the local crop shortly. For those of you with a cooperative tree, you probably have some figs plumping up already, and with a little luck, they might be ripe before the end of the month.

Honey

Local honeys are usually available year-round, however, July is when there is a glut, and you are presented with a plethora of variety. You need not settle for the everyday flavours of wild flower, clover and goldenrod: there are dandelion; buckwheat (a dark, strong-flavoured honey suited for savoury concoctions); raspberry; apple; almond; orange; lavender honey... The choice is vast.

Stone fruits

Cherries. Plums. Need I say more? Apricots, peaches and nectarine show up a later in the season.

Eggs

We rarely give thought as to the origins of our eggs, but we really should. If you are lucky enough to get your hands on some free-range eggs, take a close look at the yolk when you break those eggs. It will be a deeper yellow than any other egg you've had in a while. In fact, it will be close to orange, especially at this time of the year. That intense yolk is chock full of nutrients not found in run of the mill eggs. (The same goes for milk, but it is rather hard to find milk exclusively from pastured cows nowadays...) Cherish those eggs: come fall, when the plucky ladies move into their indoor quarters, the yolks will revert to their paler counterparts.

Summer Squashes
Zucchini; yellow summer squash; patty pan squash; cucumbers; and squash blossoms. It all seems quite novel at first, but by the end of the month, you will likely want to run away at the sight of them. Well... maybe not the squash blossoms.

Bon app'!

Summer Loving

2011-06-30T17:25:00.000-04:00

When I was a kid, the hip thing to do for Mother's or Father's Day brunch was to fry eggs in the toast. You were meant to use sliced bread, and make a heart-shaped cutout into which you would drop the egg. I haven't had sliced bread (not that kind...) in ages, and the loaves I eat aren't big enough to accommodate a heart-shaped cutout, but I still enjoy the occasional egg-fried toast.

It's lovely for breakfast and brunch, if that's your thing. I, on the other hand, am rather partial to eking out as much sleep as I can in the morning, so I prefer this dish for a light lunch or dinner. Topped with a handful of veggies (garlic scapes, radishes, greens and peas are my current favourites), it is a quick and lovely way to fill your belly.

No recipe required. Just cut out a slice of bread. Fry one side in a bit of butter; flip it over, add a little more butter if needed. Drop an egg in the cutout, and let it cook over low heat. If you want the yolk to remain runny and the white to be barely set, cover the pan with a lid, and leave it be for a minute or two. Season to taste, and top with sautéed vegetables.

Bon app'

500 Days of Summer

2011-06-29T00:54:00.000-04:00

When I think of all the things that need to get done in the garden, I momentarily wish that summers in Montreal were endless; that I had more time to crouch amongst my vegetables beds to pick out every single weed. But if summers went on forever, I probably would not enjoy the briefly intense gardening sessions I snatch minutes before I dash off to work; in the dying daylight after a lunch shift; or under the porch light while fending off the mosquitoes in the dead of night. No, indeed, if I had all the time in the world to do my garden chores, I am quite sure that they would never get done.

And I wouldn't appreciate the little things: like the first peas from my garden. While I am mentioning them for the first time today, rest assured that the peas above are not actually the first peas from my garden. They're merely the first ones to make it to the kitchen! I've been munching on my peas for about two weeks now, along with lots of rapini, roquette and other greens.

Last week, I received the first delivery from my CSA farm. In the basket, there were green onions; baby spinach; mesclun; Asian greens; and asparagus. You needn't join a CSA to enjoy the bounties of summer, but I do highly recommend it. And it's not too late to join, some farms still have openings, and would love nothing more than to share their harvests with you.

Other goodies that you may find in the CSA baskets or at the market are garlic scapes and the first of the new season garlic. The scapes are more piquant than pungent, so you can get away with serving them on their own, as a featured vegetable. The heads of garlic, on the other hand, are still rather mild, and might not have quite yet formed individual cloves, so you will most likely be using more garlic than normal. But it's all good, since garlic is very good for you. The first green beans are also trickling in at the market; they're still stick thin -just the way I like them- and very tender.

I mustn't forget the strawberries! The cool and wet spring had delayed the harvest a bit, but they are here in all their glory. The sun and hot weather are making up for lost time, and now there is a bit of a glut at the market. It is the perfect time to be stocking up on homemade jam. If you are buying berries for jam, make sure that you choose an even amount of dead-ripe berries (for flavour and colour) and slightly under-ripe fruit (for the pectin boost). The recent deluge that fell over many parts of Canada has resulted in juicy, though not overly sweet berries, which is fine for jamming.

It is the time for wild salmon and Atlantic mackerel. From California all the way up to Alaska, the Pacific salmon are running upstream. This early in the season, you will mostly find Pinks, Chubs, and Keta. These salmon species are paler in colour, and somewhat smaller in size than the later varieties, but they still make for a scrumptious meal. I did notice that Sockeyes were also coming in: they are on the small-ish side, but they have the deep orange flesh that has become the marker of wild salmon. Cohoes do not usually run up until late summer.

I do not know if the Atlantic salmon fisheries will be revived in my lifetime, but if you have a hankering for wild Atlantic salmon, you will have to cross the pond as they are still being caught in Scotland and Ireland (though who knows for how much longer). I vaguely remember eating wild Atlantic salmon in my childhood, but I couldn't tell you if it was delicious or not, however some salmon lovers claim that the Atlantic salmon is the king of all salmon. Here's to hoping that the fish makes a comeback soon, so that the argument can be settled once and for all.

One Atlantic fish that is still considered sustainable is the lowly mackerel. This fish is still grossly under-appreciated, yet it is very inexpensive, highly nutritious, and makes for the best summer eating. Its high fat content (read high in omega fatty acids) makes it ideal for barbecues, grilling over an open fire, and eating raw when very fresh. It is usually sold whole; for those who are not faint of heart, the innards, head and bones are a great addition to the compost heap: it might raise a stink, but it breaks down fairly rapidly, and your plants will love you.

Bon app'!

Radish Encore

2011-06-23T18:43:00.000-04:00

I think this might be my new favourite way to eat radishes, when all I want is radishes: en carpaccio. It's pretty, simple, and it's always nice to fuss over one's dinner every now and then... I recently heard an interview with a cookbook author who was extolling the virtues of cooking for one. I can't remember the radio show, nor the author's name, otherwise I'd post a link to the podcast. However, the author's point was this: "If you can't be bothered to cook well for yourself, when are you ever going to cook well?"

Which reminded me of a family friend who passed away not too long ago. As far as I can remember, she had always been single and was a lover of good food. She had once told my mother that she made a point of setting the dinner table, and pouring herself a glass of wine whenever she ate at home, because she was her single most important dinner guest.

It makes sense of course: if you don't care about how and what you eat, who will? We all feel harassed by time, and sometimes, life just seems to throw more hurdles and hoops at us than we can handle, but eating well must not become a daily stress. So sit down, sip a glass of wine, and enjoy your meal.

Radish Carpaccio

Serves 1

3 good sized radishes

½ lemon juice and zest

a pinch of sea salt

a drizzle of hazelnut oil

Top or tail the radishes, and proceed to slicing them as thinly as possible. This process is easiest if you have a mandoline.

Display the radish slices on a plate, sprinkle with the salt and lemon zest, then drizzle the lemon juice and hazelnut oil.

Set aside.

Meanwhile, set the table, put on some mood music; sit down, and enjoy!

This carpaccio is actually a variation on the instant sweet pickles. So if you are slightly pressed for time, you can simply mix everything in a bowl, and enjoy it as a salad. It's quite pretty that way too. Also, you needn't limit yourself to the seasonings I listed: substitute another citrus juice or vinegar for the lemon, and switch the oil: almond oil or toasted sesame oil are lovely too, though I would steer clear of olive oil for this recipe.

Bon app'!

P.S. A reader had mentioned that she was somewhat dissatisfied about following this blog by RSS feed, and was wondering if it was possible to follow by email instead. Well folks, if you would also prefer following the Foodie's Quest by email, now you can!

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